There are roughly six families of fragrance materials that make up the top notes: Citrus, Herbs, Aldehydes, Greens, Marine/Aqueous, and Fruits. Each family has unique relationships or effects on the other parts of any fragrance. How they present themselves in the final formulation normally determines where they are placed in the triangle.

Citrus notes are the most volatile of these ingredient families. While classified as top notes, citrus can also play an important role in the heart of a fragrance. Citrus oils for fragrance are extracted from the skin of the fruit, not the juice, through expression or distillation. Common citrus notes include Bergamot, Bitter Orange, Clementine, Grapefruit, Lemon, Lime, Mandarin, Orange, and Petitgrain.

Also referred to as the Aromatic family, herbal notes can dominate both the top and mid parts of a fragrance. Traditionally, herbal notes are mostly classified as having a “masculine” quality due to their frequent use in colognes and aftershaves. They can be subdivided into Aniseed types (Basil, Fennel, etc.) and Medicinal types (Rosemary, Artemesia, etc.). Most herbal plants used in fragrance are native to the Mediterranean region. Common herbs include Artemesia, Basil, Bay Leaf, Camomile, Celery Seed, Fennel, Lavender, Mint, Rosemary, and Thyme. Herbs classification can also extend to Camphor and other scents typically classed as medicinal (i.e.Eucalyptus), as well as Herbal Mints such as Peppermint, Spearmint, and Wintergreen.

Aldehydes in fragrance were first discovered by Jean-Baptiste-André Dumas in 1833. They can play a dominant role in both the top and mid parts of a perfume. In this context, aldehydes are original aroma chemicals used to give power, diffusion, and uniqueness to a fragrance, such as in Chanel No.5. They can provide a dry, clean, or metallic facet to a formulation, and some have a fruit-like character, while others exhibit sour or fatty qualities.

The green family consists of natural and synthetic materials that add grassy or stem-like qualities to a fragrance. The impact of green notes can extend into the heart of a fragrance. Common green ingredients include Clover, Galbanum, and Cis-3-Hexenol.

Marine notes evoke water or the sea and can add a clean or salty freshness to a fragrance. The marine family includes seaweeds and algae, along with synthetic inventions like Calone (as in L’eau D’Issey) or other ozonic creations meant to convey the sensation of fresh air or moisture.

While normally classified as top notes due to their aldehydic, and lactonic characeteristics, fruits can also play an important role in the overall effects of a fragrance. Fruits, like some citrus and herbal materials, sit at the cusp of top and heart. 

Most fruit ingredients are synthetic reproductions or based on isolated chemical notes (aldehydes, lactones, esters...), except for blackcurrant, which is extracted from buds and leaves. Fruit notes can be subdivided into Orchard Fruits (apple, peach, pear), Berries (blackcurrant, raspberry, strawberry), Tropical Fruits (banana, passion fruit, pineapple), and Melons (cantaloupe, honeydew, watermelon).

In future discussions, we will examine the heart notes that give fragrance its character and the base notes that provide depth and longevity. Understanding how top, heart, and base notes work together will allow you to fully appreciate the artistry behind each perfume composition.